Sífnos

The forecast for our trip from Hydra to Sífnos in the Cyclades on Friday 29^th August was for northwesterly winds at about 15kts (off Hydra) to about 25kts (from half way across to Sífnos). BV is a very capable yacht and we had no great concerns about the wind strength, particularly given that there would be a significant downwind component. What we had failed to take into account was the size of the sea that the wind would generate. We had sailed through the Gulfs of Patras and Corinth with similar strength winds at times but the sea there is well-protected by the land so there is little opportunity for waves to build up. In the Aegean, however, the northerly quadrant wind blows across a large stretch of water and so the waves can (and do) build up significantly but not always from a consistent direction; you get the odd rogue wave or two potentially catching out (soaking) the helmsman.

The gap ahead of BV before it closed up

Before we even got that far, however, we had to get out of Hydra. Having wormed our way into a space by the north mole so that later arrivals (there were none) could take the space further out, when we woke in the morning we found that the change in the wind direction meant that our route out had closed up except when there was a significant lull in the wind. The charter lead-skipper in the catamaran next to us offered to give us a hand getting out when he got back from checking his emails but, in the end, a longer than average lull gave us a chance to squeeze out without his help (albeit untidily) at about 9am, about an hour after we had intended to leave.

Nicky’s plan was to route downwind to the southern tip of Hydra, through the islands and then strike out east for Sífnos. With 2 reefs in the main and genoa we were somewhat under-canvassed initially but it was clear that we would need the reefs when the wind did eventually get to us properly. With the wind from the northwest, we had expected it to funnel down the western side of the island but it was surprisingly light there. To the south we were also more sheltered that Nicky had expected so, in retrospect, she thinks that we would have been better to have motored to the north tip of Hydra and, in clear air, set sail to the east from there. When the wind properly reached us, it came in strength. For the over half the journey there was more than 26kts of true wind and we frequently saw gusts of the apparent wind of more than this. We reduced the genoa and took the third reef in the main and continued to rush onwards. The AIS proved particularly helpful as we crossed a shipping lane and were able to identify and directly call 2 ships that were going to conflict with our track to ask them to pass behind us. Both, ships answered our call very promptly and seemed happy to alter course a few degrees for us.

Unfortunately, at some point before sailing Nicky had mismeasured the distance between Hydra and Sífnos. Instead of being the expected 65nm journey we ended up covering 81nm and it was apparent that we would have to make the approach to Ormos Váthi on Sífnos by night. The entrance is partially lit by a lighthouse but until we were close in it would be difficult to know whether or not the wind and waves would make an approach feasible. If they didn’t the only other sensible option was to continue to Ios, 30nm further on; potentially another 5 hours. Happily, as we got closer to the land, the island of Sífnos provided some shelter from the seas, though the wind remained strong. We considered entering the bay with the mainsail up but decided against it, and lowered the mainsail first and then, with the engine running, tried to roll away the staysail. Unfortunately, the furlex stuck briefly and once it had got going the sail had formed a wineglass around the inner forestay. Nothing we could do would unwind the mess quickly and the sail flogged and split before we could get it down – something to deal with in the daylight whilst hoping that the wind wouldn’t damage the sail more overnight.

There were more yachts anchored in Ormos Váthi than we had anticipated, some without anchor lights which did not help, and all of them, including a very large motor yacht, veering all around the place in the strong gusts that swept across the bay from the north. The pilot books say that there is good holding in the bay, and there is – once you have found it! It took us 4 attempts and a change of location to get the anchor to stay put, a rare occurrence for our Rocna. All was explained in the morning, though, when we saw the large patches of weed on the sand. That, combined with the strong wind which caused the bow to be blown downwind quickly, would have greatly reduced the chances of the anchor holding. In fact, the anchor had held for about 5 minutes on the first attempt but had probably caught on a clump of weed and the hold had given way in the first decent gust. Just as well we are always pessimistic about anchoring and double check all is well with a good dig-in reverse power applied.

With the anchor dug in and BV secure for the night we had dinner and then settled down to a round of anchor watches so that those who were in their bunks could sleep soundly secure in the knowledge that someone was watching in case the anchor should drag.

The torn staysail

It wasn’t a long night and we were up promptly to repair the damage to the staysail. The wind was surprisingly light, given that there was now a gale warning for the area, so we seized our chance, lowered the staysail and set to work with the sewing machine.

It took several hours of teamwork but eventually the sail was repaired (we have yet to test it out) but it should see us through to the winter when we can get a replacement made.

In addition we needed to repair the burgee which had comprehensively shredded itself on the passage and, because part of the lashing holding one of the jerrycans had also broken the previous day, we replaced it and all the other ones like it.

By day we could see the other yachts clearly

… and even the narrow entrance didn’t seem so challenging

After all that work it was time to stop and take a stroll ashore. Ormos Váthi is a small, typically Cycladic village with a number of white, cube-like buildings and a church with, unusually, a white-painted dome (they are more usually blue-painted).

The village appears to cater primarily to the Greek tourist trade. We had a very pleasant stroll around and picked up some useful supplies from the mini-markets.

Our taverna for lunch by the beach

We also ate an absolutely excellent lunch at one of the beach-front tavernas. After a swim from BV in the beautifully clear water, we plotted to sail to Síkinos the next day and then to Ios the day after, from where Neil would, reluctantly, have to catch a ferry back to Athens.

Sífnos