L'Aber Wrac'h

Night Sailing

On Sunday 26 August we had been invited for a long Sunday Lunch. Sadly a study of the weather forecast and tide tables confirmed that there was a small weather window in which we should be able to head west so we had to decline the invitation. Instead, after a light lunch on board, we untied and left St Peter Port sailing south waiting for the westerly wind to back so that we would be able to head west along the Brittany coastline. The wind died but, after a few hours motoring west, it built again from the south exactly as forecast. We sailed overnight working a loose 2 hours on, 2 hours off watch system. The phosphorescence that night was fantastic - very much like the Milky Way in our wake – and with the windvane set up, BV sailed herself west, eased along by the favourable tide.

As we approached the north-western tip of Brittany the tide started to flow against us. By this stage we also had gusts of 27 knots over the deck and the forecast was for the wind to increase further. Stopping in L’Aber Wrac’h seemed like the best plan so we tacked backwards and forwards to make the entrance and then raced into the estuary.

We bypassed the marina and headed up river to moor off Paluden. This was a new location for us to visit and, being further up river, we hoped that it would provide more shelter from the imminent gale.

Despite the showers we took the bikes ashore and cycled a 14 km circuit taking in the fantastic Viviers de Prat-ar-Coum on the shore of L’Aber Benoit, and the town of Lannilis where we brought some lovely rustic bread.

'Fred'

The viviers only had large crabs; larger than our largest pan. We therefore had to improvise and so after ‘Fred’ had been put to sleep in fresh water he was boiled in the wok.

‘Fred’ fed us well with enough crabmeat for a large dinner as well as crab sandwiches for the following day’s lunch and the claws became a (large) tasty starter for our meal that evening too. 

Morning Sunshine at Paulden

The Wind Blew

We got our night at anchor in Grande Greve Bay on the west side of Sark; very pleasant and settled. However, with a Force 8 gale and rain forecast to arrive from Friday lunchtime, St Peter Port’s Victoria Marina seemed to be the prudent option. We had a lovely morning sail across to St Peter Port and wondered if the weather forecasters had got their timings completely wrong. After refuelling and exchanging an empty gas bottle we moored up in Victoria Marina and wandered over to the Guernsey Yacht Club to meet up with Nicky’s father and his partner for lunch. As we arrived at the door, the heavens opened with very heavy rain and squalls. Nothing for it but to hibernate in the yacht club until the weather improved whilst making the most of the good company, nice wine and some excellent lobster salad to keep our energy levels up.

Snugly moored in Victoria Marina

Amazingly the rain stopped mid afternoon so we were able to leave the yacht club dry and explore the shops in St Peter Port. The ship's cocktail cabinet was restocked with gin (G&Ts are important for medicinal purposes after a stressful day of sailing) plus we purchased the necessary blocks to make a hoist to lift up the new, heavier outboard motor.

The social diary kept us busy with a very pleasant evening and dinner with Nicky's Mum and afterwards we retired to our bunk on BV replete but with the wind still blowing strongly.

Sadly, Saturday brought no respite from the wind and rain so instead of sailing we paid for our gastronomic indulgences with a morning run along the coastal path; probably good for body and soul, but far too many steps! Fortunately the weather forecast is predicting the wind to drop on Sunday but to come from a westerly direction. Not so good as that is where where we want to go and sailing yachts don't go too well directly into wind. However Monday may bring a more southerly wind for a time which would be very useful. We have therefore plotted a passage to North Brittany for Sunday afternoon (when there is enough tidal height to get out of the marina) and will either anchor on the French coast or, if the wind backs to the south, stay sailing throughout the night to get as far west as we can before the next depression rolls in from the Atlantic and impedes our progress.

Castle Cornet with Guernsey Yacht Club in front