Alderney

Braye Harbour Looking East

 Moule Mariniere and Muscadet

Alderney is an island we have often wanted to visit but generally bypassed in the rush to get on to Guernsey or France. We have therefore only visited properly once and promised ourselves that we would visit again when we had more time. Pinching ourselves and grinning we realised that we now have the time so, after a short 3½ hour passage from Cherbourg, we dropped anchor in Braye Harbour. Once we had gone ashore by dinghy to clear Customs and to book in with the Harbourmaster, we settled back in onboard for a seafood feast with our shopping trophies from Cherbourg.

Having eaten far too much we turned in with big plans for an early start to explore the island. Unfortunately the early start came a little earlier than expected with an unexpected increase in wind that swung BV close to some Clipper Venture round the world racing yachts moored nearby.  All would be fine provide the anchor held but, just in case it dragged, from midnight we took it in turns to stay awake in the cockpit on anchor watch. At 5 am it was dawn and we moved the anchor, checked it was solidly dug in and crashed out.

Braye Harbour Looking West from Fort Albert

Have folding bike, will travel

Somewhat later than expected, we transported our folding bikes ashore and explored the island. It is only 3½ x 1½ miles in size with a normal population of about 2000. Strategically significant, it is covered in forts and castles dating from Roman times right up to WWII. Unspoilt, it was a delight to explore. St Anne’s town has real character with cobbled streets and small shops. Sadly most were closed on Wednesday afternoon; our loss with the late start. We cycled around the whole island stopping at numerous beautiful beaches, Mannez Lighthouse at the far NE of the island and headlands at the opposite end, where we had fantastic views for Fort Clonque and the Gannet colony on Les Etacs.

Corblets Bay, Fort Corblets and Mannez Lighthouse    

Saye Bay

The main (and only) town of St Anne’s

Les Etacs reported to have around 7000 nesting pairs of Gannets

Thursday 23 August morning was glorious with clear blue skies. We went for a run along the beach and up to Fort Albert; fantastic views. Once back onboard we stowed the dingy and outboard motor ready to set off in the afternoon. We had to do some careful checking of the tides to decide on our departure time because the tides run extremely strongly around Alderney. They run faster than BV can sail or motor so timing the tide and very careful navigation would be needed to make sure we didn’t get into trouble.

After an indulgent lunch, which included the garlic snails, French bread and cheese, we made the most of the clear blue skies and sunshine by lazing in the cockpit and reading. Mid afternoon we raised the anchor and departed Braye Harbour looking suspiciously at the halo around the sun caused by high level cloud because it normally heralds the arrival of a frontal weather system. Our immediate minor frustration was the lack of wind as we motored through the infamous Swinge with double our normal speed due to the fast running tide as we headed the short distance towards Guernsey. The weather update in a few hours would confirm whether or not we could sneak in a night at anchor off one of the beaches of Sark before moving to the security of St Peter Port.