We had really enjoyed our time in Cala
Portals but we also wanted to take a look at Palma de Mallorca as well. In some
ways our timing was not great. When we called up the Réal Club Náutico de Palma
for a berth they told us that they were hosting a regatta and so were fully
booked. That explained why Palma Bay was full of enormous racing yachts like
the one pictured on the right. We subsequently realised that Palma Yacht Show
was also happening, filling up further berthing space.
Now if you are a sensitive chap and worried about the size of your mast
then Palma is not the place to visit. Marina Port de Mallorca managed to
‘squeeze’ us into one of their superyacht berths and our 20 metre mast
(pictured left this side of the red ship’s funnel) was a very small stick next
to our neighbours’. We weren’t even long enough to reach the thick laid mooring
warps and still get ashore, so we secured BV to the pick-up line to hold her
off the quay.
Similarly, if you are feeling boat-proud then Palma is highly likely to
give you a polishing complex. All around us professional crews were preparing
their yachts for the season. Everything glistened, shined and looked immaculate.
A
further indication that we were a little smaller than the average yacht here
was the water and shorepower charges. Minimum charge was for 20 kW hours
(enough to keep BV going for a month) and 5 cubic metres of water (10 times
BV’s water capacity). We didn’t need either so were able to avoid inefficiently
tapping into their supply.
However,
one unexpected bonus was that we were invited for drinks and a pig roast which
the marina had laid on to celebrate the start of the good weather. It was a fun
do and we met some really nice people. Amongst them we talked at length to Phil
and Mark who both captain rather large and luxurious motor yachts. Phil kindly
showed us around his charge the following morning; very impressive and a very rare
opportunity. They also gave us an insight into how staggeringly expensive these
beasts are to run. Aside from the amusement value that BV’s engine and generator
going at maxi-rate use less fuel each hour than the generator on Phil’s yacht,
both Phil and Mark talked about some of the yacht’s they had worked on with
fuel consumptions ranging from 750 to 5000 litres per hour. That put BV’s 4
litres per hour consumption and 400 litre fuel capacity into perspective!
But the reason for our visit stood
out beyond the superyachts; we wanted to see the old quarter of the city and
the Gothic cathedral which was renovated in Modernista style by Antoni Gaudí at
the beginning of the 20th century.
The old quarter is enchanting. Aside
from the cathedral and royal palace with tree lined streets, it is filled with
old nobles’ houses and mansions. As we walked through the narrow streets we
could see in, through barred gates, a small part of the elegant stone staircases
and courtyards.
The city is also very chic and the
majority of the shops and boutiques were stocked with all of the well-known
designer labels and expensive watch manufacturers’ products. It didn’t take
many paces though to get into areas slightly off the beaten track, which were
equally delightful and often with fantastic looking restaurants tucked away in
quiet corners.
Of
course no visit to the old quarter would be complete without a photo of the windmills.
And, we had to try the local speciality ensaimada,
which is a flat spiral of flaky pastry (not as sweet as I was expecting and so
I was left slightly disappointed, but a treat all the same).
Having explored the old quarter and
recce’d a good supermarket to get fresh provisions in the morning we hatched a
plan to shop and then visit the cathedral in the morning before departing at
lunchtime on Wednesday 30 April.
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