Astipálaia

The forecast for Thursday 4 September was for Force 4 (approx 15 knots) northwesterly winds – excellent for a 60nm easterly transit from Íos to Astipálaia. However, the reality was a northwesterly wind that barely made it above 7 knots so we ended up motoring the whole way. Consequently, it was a dull and boring journey with the tedium only relieved by the thermocouple failing in the oven, which delayed lunch somewhat. Though the oven is now working, we have little faith in it so when it is in use we have to keep checking to make sure that the gas is still lit. Never the most efficient of ovens, this doesn't help its cooking ability. However, spare bits, and a qualified gas-fitter, are not easy to come by, so we’re going to have to put our bid to enter the Great British Bake-Off on hold for a while and use the hob primarily.

Nísos Astipálaia is very different to Ios. It looks quite barren looking and is much less touristy but there appear to be some lovely bays. As we approached the port the castle above it stood out clearly, with the houses of the chora clustered around it and straggling down to the port.

The harbour is surprisingly large and well appointed. Yachts moor stern- or bows-to along the inside of the breakwater; there is space for about 15 yachts and there are plenty of water and electricity points. A sign at the root of the breakwater confirmed that plenty of EU money had been spent on these recent port renovations. Ferries moor on a quay on the other side of the breakwater, which reduces the effect of their wash on moored yachts.

Traditionally, the village (the chora) of a Cycladic island is located at the top of the hill, away from the port/harbour so that the villagers had plenty of warning of the approach of pirates or invaders. On Astipálaia the houses of the port and the chora have now merged so that the 2 settlements are, effectively, one. We took a wander ashore around the harbourside, up through the narrow lanes and steep steps to the chora and then further up to the 8 windmills and castle at the top.

Unlike most Cycladic castles, which were designed primarily as military-style structures (although frequently there were houses within the walls), the Kastro on Astipálaia is part of the settlement itself: an outer ring of mostly 3-storey private houses formed the defensive screen at the top of the hill. The castle was founded in 1413 by Giovanni Querini, who arranged for the repopulation of Astipálaia by people from Mykonos and Tinos, following its abandonment after a major Turkish raid. From its foundation until the early 19^th century the chora and the Kastro were one and the same but as life in the islands became more stable, the village expanded outside the castle walls and down the hill. Unfortunately, most of the buildings were built supported on each other so that, when a significant earthquake hit in 1956, there was a ‘house of cards’ effect. Having been pretty much abandoned since the earthquake, the castle has recently been subject to a certain amount of restoration and, more importantly, structural stabilisation. Some of the houses have been partially restored, some have been left ruined but it is easy to imagine how the Kastro might have been in its heyday.

We spent an enjoyable hour or so clambering across the walls and stairways, enjoying the views from the top and, once more, marvelling at the fact that the sheer drops and airy stairways weren’t all surrounded by railings in the name of Health and Safety. We were clearly trusted not throw ourselves off; how jolly civilised and non-nanny state of the Greeks.

Of course being at the top of the hill meant that there were great views down over the town, islands and the bays.

And, having climbed up to the top of the hill, we felt that we had definitely earned a beer when we got back down to sea level.

After a couple of peaceful nights (no loud tavernas, hooray!) we moved, all of 4nm, across to anchor off Ormos Skhinounda, a nearby beach which is totally protected from the sea by a breakwater of off-lying islands.

MV Ince Inebolu and entourage

During our stay in the port, we had noted with interest the frequent arrival and departure of a coastguard lifeboat. As we repositioned to Ormos Skhinounda the lifeboat passed us at some speed and we realised that the coaster that we had seen when we arrived, ‘anchored’ off one of the bays to the east of the island, was actually firmly aground.

Ormos Skhinounda

Once settled at anchor in Ormos Skhinounda (much less hassle than stern-to mooring in a port) we plotted a relatively early start for the 40nm passage to Nísos Nísyros the following day and enjoyed a quiet night despite having been joined by a Turkish yacht which, in best French-style, anchored quite close to us. However, we didn't really get in each other's way and in the morning there was the beginnings of a good wind to head on east.

Astipálaia