Ancient Knidos

We set our alarm clock and left Bozuk Bükü expecting strong notherly winds to build during the day. To make things more comfortable our plan was to sail north before the wind built and then bear away west along the Datça peninsula. This worked well as we tacked backwards and forwards between the Greek Island of Sími and the Turkish mainland.

Stenón Nimou, between the islands of Sími (R) and Nímos (L)    

Rather than going all of the way north around Sími our route took us through the small gap, Stenón Nimou, between the islands of Sími and Nímos.

South side of the Datça peninsula

But working our way west along the south side of the Datça peninsula was done under engine in near calm winds.

Approaching the old commercial harbour at Ancient Knidos    

Not quite the sail we had expected but we made quick progress and eventually arrived at the western end of the peninsula and the harbour at Ancient Knidos.

There is a jetty and restaurant there but we swung to our anchor in the middle of the old commercial harbour. All around us were the ruins of the ancient city and there was a large theatre clearly visible on the shoreline to our north.

We took the dinghy ashore, landed on the beach underneath the restaurant and walked up to the site entrance. A bit like the restaurant, this appeared to be undergoing pre-season works, re-installing CCTV cameras and up-grading the entrance chainlink gate to turnstiles (not yet in action). The site itself also has the feel of being work in progress. There are large areas where huge stone blocks, some ornately sculpted, have been arranged neatly, clearly all catalogued and organised by the archeological team; in other areas some element of reconstruction has taken place; but much of the site is still only partly excavated (if that) and you can wander freely across small paths or hillside scrub literally tripping over ancient stonework as you go.

The double harbour

In the 4^th century BC, Knidos was part of the Dorian Hexapolis, with a fine double harbour – the commercial harbour on the south side of the peninsula and the military harbour on the north side. Strategically located at the western end of the Datça peninsula, Knidos became extremely prosperous and had all the trappings, and more, of a wealthy city of the period. The site continued to be used well into Byzantine times (and, doubtless, beyond this) and so on top of the 4^th century BC ruins are the ruins of several Byznatine churches.

Agora

Despite not having been fully excavated, the original city layout is remarkably clearly defined. The well preserved (with some columns reconstucted) agora or market place is one of the first structures a visitor comes across.

Silted up military harbour

From here we made our way to the northern/military harbour. This is now very silted and can only be entered by boats with a very shallow draft but it was easy to imagine it filled with triremes and the like. The ruins of the defensive towers and the narrow fortified entrance are still clear to see.

We continued our journey around the site going up Harbour Road, the stone surface and steps of which are polished smooth by 2 millenia of footsteps.

The road led up across a series of terraces on each of which are the remains of temples, treasuries and votive offering places. Under the road was a drainage system of tunnels up to 2.5m high, now exposed to view in places but which, at the height of the city’s power, would have been hidden.

We followed the increasingly rough footpath to the top of the semi-excavated remains but we were keen to see the ruins of the large theatre and the akropolis. The signs pointed out across the scrub towards some distant large stonework so we set off along some very small paths which quickly became virtually non-existent.

Climbing over ancient and not so ancient walls and other stonework we passed a family of goats and then stumbled across the remains of the Temple of the Muses, complete with sleeping serpent, and a long one at that! No sooner had I snapped a photo than the snake slithered off at some speed, clearly upset at having been caught napping. Having casually been wandering through the knee high grass we resolved to walk more loudly through the undergrowth as we both felt that 20 feet distant was quite close enough to a snake that size!

We also saw lots of large lizards sunning themselves on the ruins. Presumably the snake was equally interested in them but more with a view to them being on the lunch menu.

We never actually found the large theatre or the akropolis. Looking up we saw the remains of some mpressive walls but the ground to get there was very difficult going so deciding instead that we would turn back and visit the ‘small’ theatre that overlooks the harbour.

Sundial

On the way down we passed another ruined temple. There are so many fine pieces of scupltured stone that you feel that the whole temple may be rebuilt in time. There was also a sundial with the markings on it still very clear. Apparently it was a fairly standard design and there would have been several of the same sort positioned around the city in public places.

We’d saved the best until last. The smaller of the 2 theatres it may be but it is still a pretty sizeable edifice. In use it seated 5000 people and we were both impressed by it when we arrived at its top tier – it certainly brought on a Life of Brian ‘otters noses?’ moment.

Footsore and weary we stopped at the restaurant for an afternoon beer in the sun before making our way back to BV. Gently swinging at anchor we were surrounded by the ruins of the old commercial harbour. Large block stone walls are on both sides of the harbour as well as on the remains of the protective breakwater to our east. It was certainly an experience to be in the 2000 year old harbour.

Ancient Knidos, Turkey