Palma de Mallorca

The anchorage under Punta Negra is just 5nm southwest of Palma de Mallorca harbour and so on Wednesday 9 August Nicky and I got BV sailing at 0900. We’d told the marina that we would be there at about 1000 but there was a good sailing wind so we beat our way to the harbour entrance which took about half an hour longer than we had planned.

Entering Palma de Mallorca harbour   

The harbour entrance was a mass of vessels, including a small tanker with its attendant tugs (top picture above), ferries and lots and lots of sailing and motor yachts. 

Once inside the harbour mouth we could start to see all the superyachts for which Palma is so famous. And, as we turned to head up to the old harbour, where we had booked a mooring for the night, we passed Marina Porto de Mallorca on our left, where we had moored the last time we were in Palma, in May 2014. It even looked as if our berth from that visit might be available for us again [Ed: possibly, but I’m not sure we could afford high season prices!].

Our marina ahead, right up in the old harbour   

Our berth; about as close as we could get to the old part of the city   

Last time we were in Palma [Here is a Link to when we last visited Palma de Mallorca in May 2014] the Palma Yacht Show was on and so we had struggled to find a berth. This time things were a lot easier and Nicky had booked us into the ‘La Lonja Marina Charter’ base, which is right up in the old harbour and about a close to the old city as it is possible to get. As its name suggests, it is a charter yacht base so has empty berths available for use on any night other than Friday, which is the night before changeover day. As soon as we had moored up, we booted Charlotte out so that she could explore the city whilst we tidied up BV and then set about some of the more mundane tasks such as finding a laundrette and some food shops and giving BV a much-needed wash. 

Shell, little Charlotte and Simon visit BV

The other important task was getting in touch with Nicky’s cousin Shell (Michelle). We had hoped to visit Shell et al at their resort on the northern side of the island but the mistral just didn’t make that viable. Instead, they caught a train down to see us in Palma. We had drinks and lunch on board and gave them a guided tour of BV. Little Charlotte enjoyed the bunks with the leecloths, just as my Charlotte and her brother, Alex, had done when they were small. But the day was hot and small children, however exciting the train journey and the boat were, need exercise and sleep so we went out and wandered around the old part of the city to enjoy the lovely architecture and see some of the sights. 

They left in the early evening, with Shell vowing to return to Palma to do it properly when (little) Charlotte is old enough to appreciate a city break and we returned to the old quarter to find some food. We ate in a fairly indifferent tapas restaurant/bar [Ed: my fault; my choice!] and then, in the semi-cool of the early night, took another wander around. By this time things had livened up again. The bars and restaurants were all doing a roaring trade and there were lots of English voices – as well as French, German and Italian ones. 

La Llotja of Palma

As we walked, we spotted a rather spectacular spiral pillar inside one of the elegant stone buildings, La Llotja of Palma. This building was constructed as the seat of the Merchants’ Guild in the mid 15^th century by the Mallorcan architect and sculpture Guillem Sagrera. The Gothic design, with an octagonal tower in each corner and its 12 rib vaults supported by 6 helical columns has apparently been likened to a palm tree garden. It is certainly a spectacular, airy space, particularly with the atmospheric lighting used to illuminate it by night. 

Having enjoyed La Llotja, we also took the opportunity to walk around the gardens at the base of the palace, which are hidden away through an arch in the old walls. At the height of the tourist season the whole area was beautifully illuminated making it was a very atmospheric stroll. 

The spectacular cathedral is next to the palace, though less well lit. Charlotte had visited it that morning; Nicky and I did not go in this time around, even though it certainly bears multiple visits, if only for the stunning stained glass windows. Here is a Link to our visit to the Cathedral at Palma.

(bottom) Bouquet of chillies   

Overnight there was an impressive thunderstorm – no great surprise after the heat of the day. Unfortunately, it did not clear the air and we woke to a grey overcast morning, which was humid and hot. Nicky hightailed it to a laundrette and the well-known Santa Catalina produce market, where I joined her after buying some bits at one of the many well-stocked chandleries. The displays in the food market were fabulous (particularly the display of fresh chillies) and we thoroughly enjoyed wandering around just looking at all the beautiful fresh fruit and veg. There were plenty of fish and meat stalls too but the prices in the former were certainly aimed more at the superyacht crowd rather than the likes of us. 

Leaving our marina berth   

Getting back to BV with far too much fresh food and a sack of wet laundry meant a couple of runs and then, of course, there was the problem of drying the washing. But that was a problem to solve elsewhere as it was now time to move on further around the south coast of Mallorca. 

Leaving Palma de Mallorca    

Palma de Mallorca, Spain