Great Harbour (1) Jost Van Dyke Island BVIs

Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke.  A very busy place in the run-up to New Year’s Eve

Having checked in at Soper’s Hole, Tortola, we took advantage of a break in the rain to sail the 3nm across to Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke to meet up with some OCC friends for New Year celebrations.  We knew that Steve and Carol in Innamorata II were anchored off Little Jost Van Dyke, a few miles to the east of Great Harbour, and had suggested that we meet them there.  But an article in the New York Times a few years ago said that there were just 3 places in the world to see in the New Year – London, New York and Foxy’s on Jost Van Dyke.  Consequently, we had a hunch that Great Harbour might be a little busy and we were keen to get a space whilst there was still one to be had.  That turned out to be a good decision as when we arrived the bay was already pretty much filled with boats.  Endless Summer and Wild Iris had arrived just ahead of us and we all circled for a bit eventually each finding a spot in which to anchor, all quite close together.

Balou (navy blue hull), Wild Iris (beige sail cover) and Endless Summer (just ahead of Wild Iris)

Shortly afterwards Innamorata II arrived and we were also joined by new OCC members Ben and Caz on Balou.  Balou had been next to us on the hard in Deltaville but we had launched and left just before Ben and Caz took ownership of her.  However, Innamorata II and Wild Iris had still been on the hard when Ben and Caz had arrived, hence Balou had joined up with them in the islands.  Great Harbour has quite a nasty rocky bottom and Caz and Ben hadn’t yet got properly to grips with anchoring in areas of poor holding, so they struggled to get settled in a spot.  In the end, Nicky went over and offered some suggestions, probably the most helpful one for them being that just because the chain feels as if it is dragging across a rocky bottom, it doesn’t mean that the anchor is insecure.  “Persevere, get the chain laid out properly, and gradually motor back on the anchor, bringing the revs up slowly; you may well be surprised by the result”.  It worked and when Ben dived on the anchor he found that, despite the continuing graunching noises from the chain as it rattled back and forth over the stony bottom, the anchor was, in fact, dug in reasonably well (as well as could be expected for the surface).  Job done, they kindly invited us to sundowners, so we had the opportunity to hear all about their first few months with Balou.

A good-looking start to the final day of 2019

White Bay

The next day, the 31^st, dawned sunny but with showers.  In the afternoon we took the dinghies around the headland to the west to White Bay.  Steve and Carol went snorkelling whilst we visited the Soggy Dollar Bar with Jos, Erica, Lisa and Mark.

We had last visited in spring 2018, 6 months after Hurricane Irma had ripped through the islands.  We had thought that the anchorage behind the reef at White Bay was busy then but it had been absolutely empty in comparison to what we saw today!  There were so many boats…….

…… and so many people.  Granted, it was 31 December, and therefore likely to be busier than average but even so!

And we recognised a fair number of the small, fast motorboats anchored almost on the beach from our time in the check-in queue at Soper’s Hole the previous day.  ‘Visit the BVI; visit the BVI’s beach bars!’

And when at the Soggy Dollar Bar what else should you drink but Painkillers?  After all, the cocktail was, allegedly, invented at here.

 

Painkillers at (well, just outside) the Soggy dollar Bar.  Nicky with Jos and Erica (Endless Summer)

New Year’s Eve celebration on Endless Summer.  (Left to right) Steve’s hand and beer (Innamorata II), Ben (Balou), Carol (Innamorata II), Lisa (Wild Iris), Jos and Erica (Endless Summer), Nicky, Mark (Wild Iris) and Caz (Balou)

In the evening the New Year’s Eve celebrations continued on Endless Summer with pot-luck nibbles and drinks.  There were smoked salmon blinis, various dips, Ollybollen (a Dutch Christmas pastry and a favourite of mine from my childhood, which Erica had made especially) and lots of fizz.  Ben and Caz managed to escape the tyranny of ‘new boat chores’, though they had been heads down working all afternoon and had missed the run to White Bay, and we all had a lot of fun as the sun set for the last time on 2019.

The final sunset of 2019 as seen from Endless Summer

But the fun wasn’t over yet.  In deference to the New York Times’ article, we planned to see in the New Year ashore at Foxy’s.

Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke Island, British Virgin Islands