Thessaloníki - City and Ruins (Part 2)

View up to the Rotunda from Galerius’ Palace   

Above the palace complex sits the Rotunda. This was built in the early 4^th century AD either by Galerius (293-311), as a temple to the Roman gods, or by Constantine (306-337), as one of the mausoleums for members of the imperial family.

The Rotunda and Arch of Galerius   

The Rotunda was linked to the palace complex by the intricately carved Arch of Galerius. This monumental archway used to comprise four similarly carved pillars with a dome over the crossroads of the processional route from the palace to the Rotunda and the Via Egnatia (the large and important road that linked Constantinople with Rome); what is left is less than half of the original structure.

The majority of the fantastically detailed reliefs carved on it relate to the campaign against the Persians.

When Christianity came to Thessaloníki in a big way the Rotunda was converted into a church, with an imposing sanctuary added to its eastern side. However, like most of the churches in the city, under Ottoman rule, it was converted into a mosque, complete with minaret……

…. script over the entrance and water fountain. After Thessaloníki returned to Greek control, the Rotunda was re-sanctified and dedicated to St George, hence a painting of the saint over the Arabic script above the entrance.

Inside, the dome and some of the niches are covered with beautiful Byzantine mosaics, some age-worn and damaged by candlesmoke and earthquakes, some almost complete. The mosaics had not been completed before the Ottomans converted the Rotunda to a mosque in 1591. During some restoration work in 1889, the Italian S Rosi painted in the missing parts, some of which survives in the eastern section of the dome to this day, albeit darkened by age.

Rotunda mosaics and ruined adjoining chapel   

Church of Panagia Acheiropoietos   

Thessaloníki, like most urban areas in Greece, is filled with churches. Above is the Church of Panagia Acheiropoietos, one of the many basilica-style churches in the city. Apparently it has some notable surviving frescoes and mosaics but, unfortunately, the church was closed so we couldn’t see them for ourselves.

Hagia Sofia   

Similarly, Hagia Sofia, a late 7^th century church was also closed, which is a shame as in the dome there is said to be a striking mosaic of the Ascension of Christ.

And so, with our tour of churches clearly thwarted by apparently unscheduled closures, we headed to the tourist office [Ed: M-F 0900-2100, why not open at the weekend??] to find out where we could hire a car and to get details of the opening times of some of the sights further afield that we wanted to see.

Thessaloníki, Greece