Vergina – King Phillip II’s Mausoleum

The hour’s drive southwest from Pella to Vergina looked oh so straightforward on Google maps (the whole-of-Greece-on-not-a-lot-of-paper map given to us by the hire car company had insufficient detail for the final 10 km from the main dual carriageway). However, once off the dual carriageway, we were rather reminded of those newspaper headlines, you know the type: ‘52 seater coach stuck on 18^th century single-track bridge after driver followed GPS map’. We bounced and weaved our way along barely paved country tracks, overtaking farm trucks filled with agricultural workers, past (very nearly through) fields of waving yellow sunflowers, olive groves and some unidentifiable fruiting trees. Eventually, however, we came out on the road right by the entrance to Vergina village. Then all we had to do was follow the mad run of roadsigns boxing us around and around the central area until they just ran out at a car park. So we abandoned the car for a short picnic lunch and then followed our noses to the Royal Tombs.

Recreated tumulus to protect the tombs   

The Macedonian capital was originally at Aigai, the site of today’s Vergina, but moved to Pella in the 5^th century BC. However, the royal burial site remained at Aigai. The Great Tumulus under which the 4 tombs were discovered in 1977/8, was constructed at the beginning of the 3^rd century BC, perhaps over smaller individual tumuli, to protect the royal tombs from further pillaging after marauding Galati hoards had looted and destroyed the cemetery. Though the original Great Tumulus was destroyed in the excavations of the tombs, the museum and the tombs themselves are now housed in a modern recreation of it. Inside, the museum itself is in semi-darkness. Off it are the entrances to 2 tombs, whilst the hall itself contains the remains of a further (looted) Macedonian-style tomb, a cist tomb (also plundered) and beautifully displayed artefacts from the unlooted tombs. Photos are not permitted in the museum [Ed: just as well as otherwise Reg would have used up all his disk space!] so the pictures of the tombs, artefacts and paintings have been taken from the museum leaflet and the internet.

The first tomb we saw was the one that had been looted in antiquity (Tomb IV). All that remains are parts of 4 Doric columns and some of the steps leading to the platform on which they were mounted but it gave a feel of what might be to come.

Hades’ Abduction of Persephone (picture from internet source). Demeter and three Fates to the left of the picture, Hades with Persephone on his chariot, and a scared nymph witnessing the event to the right   

Next on our route was the remains of a heroon and cist grave (Tomb I), probably that of Nikissipoli, one of King Phillip II’s queens. Though no artefacts were found inside, the wall painting inside is fabulous. It is an almost unique example of ancient painting and is thought to be the work of the famous ancient artist Nikomachos.

Hades’ Abduction of Persephone (detail, picture from museum leaflet)   

Aside: The myth of Persephone’s abduction. Demeter was intimately associated with the seasons. Her daughter Persephone was abducted by Hades to be his wife in the underworld. In her anger at her daughter's loss, Demeter laid a curse on the world that caused plants to wither and die, and the land to become desolate. Zeus, alarmed for the barren earth, sought for Persephone’s return. However, because she had eaten while in the underworld, Hades had a claim on her. Therefore, it was decreed that Persephone would spend four months each year in the underworld. During these months Demeter would grieve for her daughter's absence, withdrawing her gifts from the world, creating winter. Her return brought the spring.

Tomb of Alexander IV of Macedon (Tomb III) (picture from internet source)   

Tombs II and III, contained the main treasures displayed in the museum. Tomb III, discovered in 1978, is thought to belong to Alexander IV of Macedon, son of Alexander the Great. It is very like that of his grandfather, Phillip II, but it is a little smaller and, instead of columns outside it, there are discs with painted heads. Unfortunately, the painted fresco above the blue squares did not survive the centuries. Inside the tomb were numerous objects including a cinerary urn (containing the king’s cremated remains) with a beautiful gold wreath around its neck. There were also weapons, huge quantities of grave goods and a highly decorated funerary couch.

Gold larnax and diadem from the tomb of
Phillip II (Tomb II) (left and top right)
Bottom right: diadem either from the antechamber
of Tomb II or from Tomb III. (Pictures from internet source)    

However, the most impressive array of treasures came from Tomb II, the tomb of Phillip II who was assassinated on the day of his daughter’s wedding. Alexander the Great buried him with great tribute, almost over and above that which was expected, and the unlooted grave bears testament to that. Over the entrance is a magnificent wall painting, believed to be the work of another famous ancient artist, Philoxenos of Eretria. It has not survived as well as the Abduction of Persephone and is a hunting scene which is thought to show both Phillip and Alexander.

Grave goods from Phillip II’s tomb (picture from museum leaflet)   

Inside, the tomb was divided into 2 rooms, the main chamber and the antechamber. The main chamber contained a marble sarcophagus, inside which was the gold larnax (box) and Phillip’s grave crown or diadem. However, the chamber was also piled with all the artefacts that the deceased king would need in the afterlife. All these objects had also been on the funerary pyre and so many of them are partly charred. Nevertheless, an amazing number have come through almost unscathed. As well as the objects shown above (weapons, food remains, horse bridles [it seems that there were 4 bridled horses on the funerary pyre as well as other animals], food storage pots etc) the chamber contained an array of beautiful silver dishes, cups and vessels for food and drink.

Phillip II’s ceremonial armour and shield (picture from museum leaflet)   

In addition, no self-respecting king could be cremated and buried without his ceremonial armour….

Golden grave goods from Phillip II’s tomb (picture from museum leaflet)   

…… or golden quiver and ceremonial jewellery. The gilded bronze greaves, also found in the tomb, appear to have belonged to a man whose left leg was weaker than his right – as was the case with Phillip II, a clue to the identity of the tomb’s occupant. In fact, the tomb contained several sets of weapons and armour and vast amounts of jewellery. Alexander did his father proud!

Diadem of Queen Meda (picture from internet source)   

In the antechamber of Tomb II was another chest containing a second larnax which held the bones of a woman wrapped in gold and purple cloth. The larnax also contained a golden diadem decorated with flowers and enamel. It is thought that the woman was one of Phillip’s queens, probably his Thracian wife, Meda, who may have sacrificed herself at his funeral.

Phillip II’s golden larnax with the royal 16-pointed star (picture from museum leaflet)   

We were captivated by the museum’s displays – the artefacts, the tombs themselves and the information. However, the road trip wasn't even half way through; next stop Meteora, 3 hours drive away.

Vergina, Greece