Bozburun

We like Turkey a lot, particularly the fresh food there. We were emphatically reminded of this during a dinnertime discussion with Daniel about cooking and food in Turkey and Greece. We also had a niggling desire to get some spares for BV from Marmaris (we know where the right shops are and we know that the costs are reasonable, verging on cheap) as well as a few Turkish momentoes for home. So, whilst we were in Rhodes we investigated the cost of taking the ferry from Rhodes to Marmaris for a day’s shopping trip.

It was surprisingly expensive –  €25 per person for the ferry and €15 per person for port dues (and this was allowing for the fact that the ferry prices have been reduced by €5 to try to drum up trade in compensation for the poor tourist season). Plus, we had to factor in the cost of leaving BV in the marina for an additional day. Compared to that it seemed more reasonable to take BV across to Turkey, even allowing for the costs of an agent to check in and check out.

Surfacing submarine: a rare sight   

So, at 0800 on Tuesday 23 August we slipped our lines and headed out of Rhodes Marina for Bozburun. Though it was early in the day there was already a decent breeze off the northern tip of Rhodes (a good wind acceleration zone); so much so that we put a reef in the main and a couple of rolls in the genoa as we beat our way west. However, mid-channel between Rhodes and Turkey the wind eased and the sea flattened out so we shook out the reefs. And then, in the now nice flat water, I spotted a periscope, right on the border between Greek and Turkish territorial waters. Nicky rushed up to my excited shout and I got a couple of pictures. We turned away and then looked back and realised that the sub was actually surfacing. What a rarity!

Passing Karaburun headland   

After that excitement we continued on our way. Closing the Turkish coast the wind picked up again and we had some great sailing up towards the Karaburun headland.

Approaching Bozburun   

Bearing away around the headland we hoped for some similarly fast sailing for the final couple of legs of the passage. It seemed as if we would be lucky but wind died out after about 15mins so we had to do the last hour or so under engine.

M/Y Lydia M (L) also from Guernsey with Dick and Mary on board   

In the approaches to Bozburun are some lovely coves and anchorages. Last September these had been absolutely packed with yachts. Not so this year. The harbour, similarly, was far from full, though on the outside and along the nearby quay there were plenty of gulets, but they mostly looked to be inactive.

Since we knew that we wanted to leave BV unattended for a full day, we avoided mooring in the harbour as with no lazy lines there is a risk of the anchor being disturbed by boats arriving alongside or departing. Instead, we anchored in a bay to the southwest and took the dinghy ashore to complete the entry formalities. Despite the lack of yachts, the agents and the various officials seemed to be pretty busy but not so busy that they couldn’t fit us in! With the paperwork complete and in possession of a shiny new Transit Log, we checked on the bus times to Marmaris and bought some essential fresh food – spicy green chilli peppers!

The view form our anchorage   

It was a lovely evening and the setting sun cast a beautiful rosy glow over the view. We were very pleased with our peaceful spot in the anchorage, even if some other yachts had the temerity to join us so that we didn’t have the place entirely to ourselves!

Bozburun   

The following day we took the early community-run dolmuş into Marmaris. It was an interesting drive past a number of bays and anchorages that we had visited in BV last year. More ‘interesting’ was the drive around Marmaris and out to the bus station. We had rather expected to be dropped at the dolmuş station in the centre of town, but no. The dolmuş from Bozburun terminates at the main bus station, which is right on the edge of town, unlike the dolmuş from Yat Marine. [Ed: at one point we wondered if we were about to be taken back to Bozburun!] However, once at the bus station we realised we were actually surprisingly close to the chandlery area of town and headed off there toute de suite. Spares purchased, Turkish knick-knacks acquired and bags filled almost to bursting, we stopped for an excellent lunch at our favourite street food stall. Two large mezes, a salad, ½kg barbecued chicken, loads of bread and 2 bottles of water, all for the princely sum of TL22 (about £5.50). So delicious! So fresh!

The walk back to the bus station helped to work off lunch. Back on BV we stowed the purchases and then started to plot and scheme the next few days.

Bozburun, Turkey