Friday 19 August 2016

Rhodes Lindos


In the morning there was next to no wind and the water beside BV looked just like a swimming pool. The anchor tripping line we had deployed as a precaution against the rocks on the seabed had snagged on the chain overnight when we had swung and the buoy was now held about 2 metres under water. So as part of our morning swim we also dived down and removed the tripping line. With the anchor nicely dug into sand we didn’t need it. However, we did note some potential chain snagging rocks close by, which a German catamaran had dropped their anchor onto and which had then swung very close to BV. That prompted us to start eyeing up the space under the cliffs where the yachts had run lines ashore.
A new day, a new view!   













When one of those yachts moved we took their space and ran a couple of lines to the rocks which put us right next to a great snorkelling spot. Shortly after our move (and snorkel survey of our new neighbourhood), we had a nice surprise when Splendido sailed into the bay. Like us they had had a good sail across from Sími. They had been aiming for Rhodes marina but were enjoying the sail so much that they continued on to Lindos. The Splendido Cocktail Party was back on!
Team Splendido to the rescue. Helping to resecure the yacht next to us   

It was just as well that Splendido had turned up because, not long after they were settled, the yacht moored between us suddenly started to swing towards BV when their mooring rope slid off the rock to which it was attached. Only Daniel on Splendido noticed and raised the alarm with some shouting and fog horn honking. The naked German couple on the foredeck looked somewhat bemused whilst we got fenders ready for the potential collision. Happily, before the fenders were needed, a sleepy-eyed charter skipper raced up the companionway and fired up their engine to move them clear.

Team Splendido used their dinghy to tow the yacht back into position and run a new line ashore for them which was much appreciated. So much so, that later that evening, during the excellent cocktail party on board Splendido, the charter skipper swam over and delivered a bottle of wine as a thank you.

The next morning we went ashore to explore the town and to get some supplies. Leaving our dinghy on a small pier we walked around the beach and up to the town which gave us a good view down onto the anchorage.

The town was heaving with tourists. We’d seen tripper boats from Rhodes deliver tourists in their hundreds and the roads into Limnos were blocked with vehicles dropping off passengers.

But despite the number of tourists the character of the town still shone out. Donkeys, to transport tourists up to the castle, added a rustic aroma to the quaint narrow streets which were crammed with jewellery shops, tourist memento shops and restaurants. Planning a return match to host Splendido’s crew on BV later that evening, we needed to find food shop which proved to be surprisingly hard. It did, however, mean that we walked around the whole of the lower town and saw the sights (and some of the town’s outskirts) as well as finding out about bus timings to Rhodes town.

During our wanderings to the south of the acropolis, we came across a fenced off area in which are the ruins of the theatre, considered to be the most important ancient ruin in the lower city. Only the 26 rows of seats were really clear to us looking through the fence but it was reasonably large.  Dating from the 4th century BC it had seated 2000 people. Beside it is a rectangular colonnaded building which is believed to have been a sanctuary of Dionysos or of Apollo. Later, during the Byzantine period, an early Christian basilica was built over the top which survived until 1924.
St Paul’s Cove   


Maltese Falcon’s masts    
To the south of the castle was another natural harbour. The narrow entrance and the bay surrounded on 3 sides by cliffs made for a very picturesque beach area. Moored just outside we could also just make out the 3 mast of Maltese Falcon, one of the largest sailing yachts in the world. This bay is named St Paul’s Cove and is said to be the place that St Paul came ashore when he travelled to Rhodes preaching.
From l-r: Jeremy, Vicenzo, Sherry (Daniel, unfortunately hidden behind Sherry), Nicky, Jess, Michael and Armando

Splendido’s crew now numbered 4 with the arrival of Sherry. Sherry, like their other guest Jeremy, works as a professional yacht skipper. That evening they all came on board BV in what turned out to be a very lively party in great company. We had 3 surprise additions when a small RIB pulled alongside looking for Michael and Daniel, Jeremy and Sherry. They had met Vicenzo that afternoon and Daniel, a fellow Italian, had said that he should come over to Splendido some time. Cadging a lift from another Italian, Armando, and Armando’s English girlfriend Jess, he had come out to say hello. All 3 came on board and joined the party. Armando is a skilled furniture carpenter helping to renovate a luxurious villa in Lindos but normally lives on a narrow boat in the UK with Jess. So, with the three of them and the 4 crew of Splendido, a really diverse mix of people, it turned out to be a fabulous evening with fascinating conversation and company.
Rhodes  Lindos, Greece

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