Fort Berkeley and the RN Tot Club English Harbour Antigua

Hotels and bars overlooking the hurricane hole

First thing on Friday 30^thMarch we took the dinghy out for a shopping trip. There’s a pretty good supermarket, ‘Covent Garden’, at the top end of English Harbour, up in the hurricane hole. Catering to its market it has a decent dinghy dock outside it and a wide variety of goods inside.

The Pillars Hotel in Nelson’s Dockyard

On the way we passed The Pillars Hotel, part of the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park. The area surrounded by the pillars was formerly part of the sail loft. Now it is a beach for the exclusive use of hotel guests and on some days weddings are held here – quite a venue.

Back on BV the weather was glorious. Charlotte wanted to stay on board to do some serious sunbathing whilst Nicky and I wanted to stretch our legs.

Fort Berkeley on the northern side of the entrance to English Harbour

Out to our left was Fort Berkley and we had read about a trail that runs from the dockyard to the fort and then around the peninsula to Falmouth Harbour. We decided that we could just fit that in before we had to go ashore for an appointment. So, leaving Charlotte on BV we set off.

We found the start of the trail on the slope just up from the dockyard. A sign explained that this is another path maintained by the RN Tot Club.

Fort Berkeley.  The nearest building was the powder magazine and just to its left you can see the edge of the steps that run up to it from the water’s edge, via which gunpowder was supplied to the magazine

In its heyday, Fort Berkeley’s guns
dominated the approaches to English Harbour

After a short distance we were out on Fort Berkley. Once, numerous gun positions dominated the approaches to the harbour. Gunpowder and ammunition was supplied to the fort by lighter direct from the powder store (on the opposite side of the inlet to the old sail loft). Steps built into the shoreline run up from the water to the powder store making delivery by this means far easier than by land. Now the battery provides a great vantage point from which to enjoy the views around and out of the harbour.

We started up the path that runs around and across the Middle Ground, the headland between English and Falmouth Harbours. The views over Nelson’s Dockyard from part way up the ridgeline were excellent. The walk across Middle Ground was great fun and a bit of an interesting scramble in places. We saw plenty of remains from the dockyard era as well as a number of lizards and lots of catci and acacia.

Views out over Falmouth Harbour

Once across the top of Middle Ground we enjoyed some great views out across Falmouth Harbour. It's a much larger harbour than English Harbour and the small yacht anchorage therefore has a much great fetch. However, the lower hills around Falmouth presumably means that the wind in the anchorage is steadier in direction and, in any case, there is more space in which to anchor. It was certainly worthwhile seeing the anchorage to file away for the future – next time there may not be space for us in Freeman Bay.

The Royal Navy Tot Club meeting in the Copper and Lumber Hotel

We walked back to the dinghy the fast way, along the road, in a bit of a rush as John and Suzie Blair had offered to introduce us at the RN Tot Club that evening. The RN Tot Club is a bit of an Antiguan institution. Members have all been introduced at the club 7 times (it meets most days of the week at a variety of locations) and, on their final introduction night, have successfully answered a number of questions on the history of the Royal Navy, and on Nelson in particular, and can correctly give the 7 daily naval toasts [Ed: of which the most well-known is ‘Wives and Sweethearts; may they never meet’ (Saturday, I think)]. On Fridays the Tot Club meets at the Copper and Lumber in the impressive arched courtyard in the centre of the building. John introduced us to a number of the other members, we were formally introduced to the club, along with several other guests and then there was the toast with, of course, a generous tot of Pusser’s finest. Afterwards, we stayed and chatted with John and Suzie and several of the other Tot Club members, many of whom are ex-Servicemen and most of whom are yachties, so we had plenty in common to discuss. All too soon it was, again, much later than we had planned but it was a fitting final evening for us in historic English Harbour.

English Harbour Antigua

Charlotte Point, English Harbour Antigua

Since we were anchored right next to Charlotte Reef, we just had to swim out and snorkel on it, in fact it is doubtful that Charlotte would have forgiven us if we hadn’t! Between BV and the reef, the seabed was sandy with little to see. Very much in keeping with everything we had already seen in English Harbour, the first thing we came upon was a reminder of the heyday of the harbour – a large Admiralty pattern anchor lying just in front of the reef.

We pretty thoroughly quartered the reef, swimming over and around the shallows and along the seaward side too, almost as far as Lookout Point. We saw some coral and plenty of reef fish but we saw much less live coral here than we have elsewhere.

Fairly early on, as appears to be becoming a habit, Nicky picked up a follower – another large barracuda. It followed her for a while as we swam along the Freeman Bay side of the reef but then lost interest as we headed into shallower waters.

Whilst there wasn’t much live coral (and we had been warned that this was the case in Antigua), we found the shoals of small fish to be pretty and the seaward wall also very attractive.

Having swum back into Freeman Bay around the western end of the reef (deep water), Nicky’s tail rediscovered her and kept a close eye on her as we swam around the anchorage. It was somewhat disconcerting having such a close shadow but the barracuda was (almost) forgotten in the delight of meeting a couple of turtles which were grazing on the seagrass and generally just hanging out in the bay. And, by the time we had finished enjoying our own (distant) stalking, Nicky’s shadow had vanished, perhaps off to find something more his own size and tastier to pursue.

English Harbour Antigua

Shirley Heights Barbecue English Harbour Antigua

Shirley Heights, dominant on the ridgeline behind Freeman Bay anchorage 

Shirley Heights is well-known in sailing circles for its Sunday night ‘jump-ups’ with steel bands playing reggae and soca but we didn’t plan to be in English Harbour for another 3 days. Instead, going to the slightly lower-key Thursday barbecue (also with steel band and reggae) seemed a good way to combine a Caribbean party with good food and a great sunset view.

We arrived a little after the steel band had started and so benefited from their rousing music as we strode back up the Tot Club’s path to the high ground.

‘Must do’ Shirley Heights sunset photo

The band was excellent; the perfect accompaniment to the Antiguan sunset view.

Once the sun had set it was time for the chilled reggae band to start up and for us to appreciate the night time view of the English and Falmouth Harbours, accompanied by a barbecue [Ed: perhaps not quite as good as a BV barbecue but much less effort in terms of prep and clearing up!]. And so, after a tasty meal, some good rum punches and plenty of toe-tapping, we headed back downhill, headtorches at the ready, with the last of the reggae band’s set accompanying our meanderings through the tropical night.

English Harbour Antigua

Nelson’s Dockyard English Harbour Antigua

The development of English Harbour as a major Royal Naval dockyard began in the mid-1700s. By 1789 it was completed, much as it stands today, and was Britain’ main naval station in the Lesser Antilles. Nelson was stationed here in 1784 and later took over as Naval Commander, though he did not enjoy Antigua, getting on with neither the Governor General (Shirley, after whom Shirley Heights is named) nor the plantocracy who resented the fact that he enforced the Navigation Act and kept the port closed to all trade other than British ships.

The Copper and Lumber Hotel

When former commander Vernon Nicholson (of Camper and Nicholson fame) arrived in English Harbour in 1947 on their sailing yacht, the dockyard was in ruins. He and his family had the vision to begin the restoration of the area and that, coupled with the development of Nicholson’s Charter Company, began the growth of the yachting industry here and in Falmouth Harbour. ‘Before and after’ pictures of the dockyard are on display in the Copper and Lumber Hotel (formerly the site of the copper and lumber stores).

The work required to effect the transformation must have been immense but it was so worthwhile. Several people we have spoken to liken Nelson’s Dockyard to Bucklers Hard on the Beaulieu River and there are plenty of similarities. The best thing is that what was once a thriving naval yard is today a thriving yachting centre with many of the buildings that had been used in the ship-building and ship-maintenance industries being used in the yacht maintenance industry instead. At present, Nelson’s Dockyard is managed by the Nationals Parks Authority with the aim of preserving the site and keeping it going as a yachting centre. Long may that continue.

The Admiral’s House (not that it actually ever housed an Admiral) now the Dockyard Museum (top left); the Copper and Lumber Hotel (top right); renovated Officers’ Quarters now shops
and business premises (bottom left)

We thoroughly enjoyed our several visits to Nelson’s Dockyard, whether wandering around yard as a whole, enjoying the Museum and the comforts of the public rooms in the Copper and Lumber….. 

The Capstan House (top left and right) and early arrivals for Antigua’s Classics Week (bottom)

….. or just idling along the quaysides rubbernecking some beautiful yachts.

Falmouth Harbour. Larger than English Harbour and with more yachting facilities, Falmouth Harbour is favoured by mega-yachts and charter companies alike – and, it seems, by Tarpon looking for a free meal!

We also took a stroll across to Falmouth Harbour to see what that had to offer. In retrospect it’s unlikely that we walked far enough around the harbour to find the majority of the yachting services that are available there but then we didn’t really need anything at the time. Falmouth Harbour is much larger than English Harbour and whilst English Harbour was the site of the naval dockyard, Falmouth Harbour was the ship anchorage. Being larger it is favoured by the many charter companies and superyachts that operate from Antigua but for intimacy and attractiveness (and probably shelter too), English Harbour has our vote any day.

English Harbour Antigua

Shirley Heights English Harbour Antigua

John and Susie from Ballyhoo (whom we had last seen at St Anne’s, Martinique) were anchored in Freeman Bay when we arrived. Over an afternoon coffee they explained that English Harbour is one of their favourite places in the Caribbean and passed on some top tips on where to visit. One of these was to climb up to Shirley heights to enjoy the morning views over the island.

Galleon Beach, English Harbour. There are plenty of Admiralty pattern anchors all around English Harbour. This one used to secure one end of an 18^thcentury hurricane chain. Both the chain and the anchor which secured the other end of the chain are still on the bottom of Freeman Bay

A land hermit crab, using an old seed
 casing in lieu of a shell, spotted on
 the way up to Shirley Heights

We agreed that climbing up to Shirley Heights would best be done early(ish) in the morning, before the sun got too hot so, early the next morning (there’s a theme here!) we took the dinghy ashore onto Galleon Beach and secured it beside the old Royal Navy anchor. 100 metres or so inland we found the start of the trail that leads up along the ridgeline to Shirley Heights. A sign at the start of the trail explains that the path is maintained by the RN Tot Club. More about the Tot Club later.

The climb up to the top (490ft) was well worth it for the fabulous views out over the whole of English Harbour and into Falmouth Harbour beyond.

View to the northeast over Willoughby Bay

There were also great views out to the northeast across Willoughby Bay. To the southwest we could see Monserrat 28 miles away and, 40 miles off to the south, Guadeloupe. The significance of this vantage point had not been not lost on the British military and, during the mid-1700s, they built a large lookout and signal station complex here to warn of approaching enemy ships. We saw the ruins of the guard house, officers’ quarters, Royal Artillery battery, and the 30-bed hospital. On a more current theme, we also learned that at sunset there would be a large barbecue on the site with reggae and steel bands playing. It looked like it would be a day of 2 climbs to the top of Shirley Heights!

Freeman Bay (top) Nelson’s Dockyard (bottom) with Falmouth Harbour behind it

Looking down over English Harbour we felt that we really ought to explore Nelson’s Dockyard and walk over to the next inlet, Falmouth Harbour. So, before we lost too much more of the day, we headed back down the trail to the dinghy and a late breakfast on BV.

English Harbour Antigua

Sailing to English Harbour Antigua

Leaving Guadeloupe

By this stage in Charlotte’s holiday, Nicky and I were getting quite practiced at early starts but this one was earlier than most – we were up before the sun and away from the anchorage at Pigeon Island before 0600! However, when the sun did rise on Wednesday 28 March it shone onto a beautiful morning, so we didn’t feel too hard done by in having to get out of bed so early. We had planned an early start to allow us to sail the 50nm to English Harbour in Antigua in the relatively light winds that were forecast and still arrive in daylight. Unfortunately, the wind cherubs failed to read the forecast, or to set their alarm clocks, and we had insufficient wind to sail. Thus we motor-sailed nearly the whole way to Antigua, switching the engine off for just the last hour of the passage.

Monserrat and it’s Soufriere Hills volcano

But the beautiful weather brought with it excellent visibility and we had fabulous views of Monserrat for most of the passage. We could clearly see the island’s active volcano still smoking away, 23 years after it erupted so spectacularly. Today, the island’s previous capital, Plymouth, and much of the south end of the island, lie buried under ash and pyroclastic mud flows. The southern part of the island remains an exclusion zone and can only be visited when accompanied by an authorised guide. The islanders have rebuilt their governmental and cultural centre at Brades in the north end of the island.

We have seen surprisingly few cetaceans whilst we have been in the Caribbean but for a brief time on this passage we were fortunate enough to see a pod of pilot whales, lazily swimming on the surface. Unfortunately, they didn’t stay with us for long which was a real shame as it would have been lovely to have spent longer watching them.

The entrance to English Harbour, with the Freeman Bay anchorage and Charlotte Reef on the left and Shirley Heights on the high point (centre)

We arrived off the entrance to English Harbour at about 1430. On the south side of the entrance is Lookout Point, with Shirley Heights above it on the hill behind. At sea level the harbour is protected by Charlotte Reef (over which our pilot book says there is good snorkelling) and tucked behind the reef is the anchorage area, Freeman Bay.

Fort Berkeley on the northern side of the entrance to English Harbour (top) and Nelson’s dockyard (bottom)

On the north side of the entrance stands Fort Berkeley and, tucked well into the inlet behind Fort Berkeley is Nelson’s Dockyard, a fully renovated 18^thcentury naval dockyard, which now houses a full service marina on quays and in buildings that once served as one of the Royal Navy’s main bases in the Caribbean.

Freeman Bay anchorage

Whilst it was tempting to take a berth in the marina and to be right in the heart of the historic dockyard, we elected to anchor in Freeman Bay for, at least, the first night. Our pilot book warns of the wind gusting from varying directions and of yachtsmen often anchoring too close together, not taking into account the shifting wind. When we arrived the anchorage was already very full and, indeed, some boats did seem to be anchored too close together. Fortunately for us, just as we arrived a large yacht lifted its anchor and left so we rapidly swooped in and took its spot. It was an almost ideal spot with sufficient space around us to be safe should the wind shift but not so much space that we were likely to get new neighbours trying to squeeze in.

As soon as we were settled, we inflated the dinghy and Nicky went ashore to complete all the arrival paperwork before, potentially, Customs and Immigration closed for the Easter weekend. We needn’t have worried on that front as it turned out that the offices would be open all through the bank holiday. On the other hand, going ashore when she did, Nicky spotted Alan Richards and his daughter, Amy, on Alan’s yacht, Far Fetched. And so the evening turned into a Guernsey catch-up over yet more rum punch.

Freeman Bay anchorage from the north

English Harbour Antigua 

Pigeon Island Guadeloupe

Leaving Îles des Saintes

To give us time at Pigeon Island, we left Îles des Saintes at 0600hrs on Tuesday 27 March and headed north up the western side of Guadeloupe.

Between the islands we caught a rather large Spanish Mackerel which I thought that we were going to keep. However, once Nicky had done a quick check on areas that might have ciguatera we decided to throw it back alive rather than risk poisoning anyone.

La Soufriere, Basse Terre

Little Tunny

The west side of Guadeloupe, Basse Terre, has an active volcano, La Soufriere, of which we had good views as we tracked north. A little further on we caught a small tunny. They can grow to be up to 1.2metres long, so we decided that this small one would be safe to eat for dinner.

Pigeon Island

Half way up the western side of Guadeloupe is Pigeon Island and the Cousteau underwater park. The early start meant that we had had little to no wind for the 24-mile passage so, having motored the whole way, by 1015hrs we had found a suitable anchorage in the bay opposite the island and were ready to explore the marine park.

The waters around the island are a no-anchoring zone and while there are day-use moorings close off Pigeon Island they are not designed for boats the size of BV, hence our choice of anchorage. Unfortunately, that left us with a ½ mile dinghy ride across to the underwater park which was something of a concern once again. But, by taking it slowly (again!) we got across and secured the dinghy to one of the short stay buoys just to the west of the channel between Pigeon Island and its small off-lying rock, Petit Îlet. Donning our snorkelling gear and rolling over the side, we were immediately rewarded with the sight of a myriad reef fish.

Stoplight parrot fish

We finned around near the dinghy mooring area for a while, enjoying the shoals of small fish and the lazily cruising barracuda that seemed to enjoy tailing Nicky. We then headed west, across the shallows between the islands and out into deeper water on the other side. We worked our way along some of the south side of Pigeon Island there was relatively little to see though and quite a lot of Sargasso weed so we turned back to Petit Îlet. The west and south sides of the rocky islet were much more interesting with the rocky shore dropping almost straight down giving us a deep wall to snorkel up and down.

Charlotte and Nicky diving down to about 7 metres to look at the sea wall close up

There was less to see near the surface than I had expected but we all dived down to about 7 metres to get a closer look at the lower part of the wall, particularly under the rocky shelves where we saw fish hiding. As we pottered back toward the dinghy we saw more shoals of reef fish and Nicky’s barracuda picked up her tail again. Somewhere around Pigeon Island is an underwater statue of Jacques Cousteau but we didn’t find it – one for next time! After about an hour we headed back to BV and from her Charlotte and I braved the shoal of small stinging jellyfish to search for turtles who graze on the seagrass in the middle of the bay. We were fortunate enough to see 6 different turtles, mostly grazing on the seabed, and we also saw one swimming up to the surface to breathe. Another holiday wishlist item, swimming with turtles, ticked off by Charlotte.

As well as snorkelling around Pigeon Island, Nicky and I also took the opportunity to get some last food items from the French supermarkets close by. We left Charlotte on board relaxing in the afternoon sun whilst we did a quick dash around the Carrefour and Leader Price stores [Ed: note, not a quick dash ashore in our long-suffering tender!]. We also found an excellent boulangerie/patisserie where we bought what we expected to be our last decent loaf of bread for a very long time – we were not wrong! Having stocked up on goodies, we retired back to BV for sundowners before an early start (yes, again!) for our 50-mile passage north to Antigua. Murray and Cate from Cool Changejoined us for rum punches on BV. They had seen us in The Saintes and, coincidentally, had also come up to Pigeon Island and anchored not too far from us. We heard how they were on their way towards New Zealand, and that they knew about us having met Philip and Claudia on Bruno’s Girl. It sometimes seems that the sailing community is very small!

Pigeon Island, Guadeloupe