Cabrits National Park Dominica (Part 1)

Fort Shirley

From the anchorage we could clearly see the restored Fort Shirley, part of the Cabrits National Park, which also includes the 2 high points overlooking the anchorage and Douglas Bay to the north. Since we still had valid multiple entry National Park tickets, on Sunday 18 March we decided to stretch our legs and walk up the Cabrits.

Trail on East Cabrit

The road from the PAYS dock runs along the shoreline to the park welcome centre at the cruise ship dock. Here we were met by a National Park guide who wanted to check our tickets and who then suggested we stop in at the visitors’ centre before heading further up. We’re glad that we did as we learned a little about the history of the area and Fort Shirley in particular, which put a useful context on our walk.

We decided to head up Inner or East Cabrit first. Of the 2 hills, this is the less visited and the paths, cleared of hurricane damage, were clearly not well used. As we climbed upwards they became more and more overgrown but we were determined to reach the top.

Commandant’s Quarters

Part way up we stopped at the ruins of the Commandant’s Quarters. The ruins had once been an elegant house designed by the colonial American architect Peter Harrison. The site was chosen as a cool, sheltered place, away from the swamp at the bottom of the hill on the landward side. However, it turned out that there was very little breeze in the chosen location and, in time, the Commandant’s Quarters were moved to a breezy location on West Cabrit, a much healthier site.

Views over Prince Rupert Bay from the eastern high battery

Our climb continued along increasingly overgrown paths until, suddenly, we were at the top and on the eastern battery. We saw plenty of ruins at the summit but none were identifiable to us. However, they apparently comprised an ordnance store, a powder magazine, a cistern, troops’ barracks and a couple of batteries, one looking out to the south (over Prince Rupert Bay) and east (over the causeway towards ‘mainland’ Dominica)….

Views over Douglas Bay from the eastern high battery

….and the other looking north out over Douglas Bay……

Looking north to ‘enemy territory’: The Saints and Guadeloupe

….with Guadeloupe and The Saintes beyond. It was from here and also the western high battery on West Cabrit, that the garrison watched the unfolding of the Battle of the Saintes 12 April 1782.

Cabrits National Park, Dominica