Nelson’s Dockyard English Harbour Antigua

The development of English Harbour as a major Royal Naval dockyard began in the mid-1700s. By 1789 it was completed, much as it stands today, and was Britain’ main naval station in the Lesser Antilles. Nelson was stationed here in 1784 and later took over as Naval Commander, though he did not enjoy Antigua, getting on with neither the Governor General (Shirley, after whom Shirley Heights is named) nor the plantocracy who resented the fact that he enforced the Navigation Act and kept the port closed to all trade other than British ships.

The Copper and Lumber Hotel

When former commander Vernon Nicholson (of Camper and Nicholson fame) arrived in English Harbour in 1947 on their sailing yacht, the dockyard was in ruins. He and his family had the vision to begin the restoration of the area and that, coupled with the development of Nicholson’s Charter Company, began the growth of the yachting industry here and in Falmouth Harbour. ‘Before and after’ pictures of the dockyard are on display in the Copper and Lumber Hotel (formerly the site of the copper and lumber stores).

The work required to effect the transformation must have been immense but it was so worthwhile. Several people we have spoken to liken Nelson’s Dockyard to Bucklers Hard on the Beaulieu River and there are plenty of similarities. The best thing is that what was once a thriving naval yard is today a thriving yachting centre with many of the buildings that had been used in the ship-building and ship-maintenance industries being used in the yacht maintenance industry instead. At present, Nelson’s Dockyard is managed by the Nationals Parks Authority with the aim of preserving the site and keeping it going as a yachting centre. Long may that continue.

The Admiral’s House (not that it actually ever housed an Admiral) now the Dockyard Museum (top left); the Copper and Lumber Hotel (top right); renovated Officers’ Quarters now shops
and business premises (bottom left)

We thoroughly enjoyed our several visits to Nelson’s Dockyard, whether wandering around yard as a whole, enjoying the Museum and the comforts of the public rooms in the Copper and Lumber….. 

The Capstan House (top left and right) and early arrivals for Antigua’s Classics Week (bottom)

….. or just idling along the quaysides rubbernecking some beautiful yachts.

Falmouth Harbour. Larger than English Harbour and with more yachting facilities, Falmouth Harbour is favoured by mega-yachts and charter companies alike – and, it seems, by Tarpon looking for a free meal!

We also took a stroll across to Falmouth Harbour to see what that had to offer. In retrospect it’s unlikely that we walked far enough around the harbour to find the majority of the yachting services that are available there but then we didn’t really need anything at the time. Falmouth Harbour is much larger than English Harbour and whilst English Harbour was the site of the naval dockyard, Falmouth Harbour was the ship anchorage. Being larger it is favoured by the many charter companies and superyachts that operate from Antigua but for intimacy and attractiveness (and probably shelter too), English Harbour has our vote any day.

English Harbour Antigua