Halifax (Part 3) The Farmers' Market and Citadel NS Canada

Saturday 11 August saw our next foray into central Halifax.  Steph had recommended that we visit the Farmers’ Market and what an excellent recommendation that was!

We arrived quite late on in the morning and the place was bustling with activity.  There were loads of local farmers and suppliers selling all sorts of produce and artisan food and drink.  There were noodle stalls (recommended by Chris) and a shop selling lobster buns (which we tried – very tasty!) and anything and everything in between.  We wanted to buy some of the local sausages but knew we had nowhere to keep them whilst we explored the Citadel (the main object of the day’s visit to Halifax) so, sadly, we passed.  Another thing to do the next time we visit.

Outside we saw the Garrison microbrewery (also recommended by Chris and Steph).  It was a hot day and clearly the place was already doing good business. Microbreweries are clearly a growing thing in North America and are very definitely a ‘Good Thing’ in the USA where much of the ‘normal’ production lager tastes of very little.  We were tempted but resisted, knowing full well that if we succumbed we might never make it up the hill to the Citadel.

As we walked up to the Citadel we passed this lovely house and decided that we could definitely cope with living there.  Close to the Farmers’ Market, the seafront boardwalk and the Garrison, and with a fabulous roof terrace from which to enjoy views across the harbour perhaps – what’s not to love?

Not one of mine!  This picture comes from the information board just outside the Citadel and clearly shows its layout, the moat and the parade square inside

Students in period costume enact various roles,
 including a guard-changing ceremony each hour

And so to the Citadel…  The current Citadel was completed in 1856 and is the fourth (since 1749) to have occupied the site.  It was never attacked but was occupied by the British Army until 1906 and by the Canadian Forces in both World Wars.  It’s now operated by Parks Canada and includes an extensive museum of the Canadian Army in the large building in the centre of the parade square.

With the 100^thanniversary of the end of WWI approaching we saw a number of WWI themed displays including, in the moat outside the walls, a mock-up of some of the trench lines in which the Nova Scotia Infantry operated

We spent a thoroughly enjoyable few hours learning about the history of Halifax (the Halifax Explosion loomed large once again)….

Canadian Army Museum

…..and then took a sharp right turn into the Canadian Army Museum to find out all about their honourabe exploits from its earliest time right up to the present day.

(Middle left and bottom) Canon and gun on swivelling carriages in their emplacements.  (Top right) Signal mast 

It took quite a while to get through the Canadian Army Museum, by which time we felt we needed a walk on the walls and some fresh air.  The Citadel was built on the highest ground above Halifax to dominate the harbour and act as one of its major defences.  We had imagined having a great view across the harbour from walls but no.  The growth of the modern city – upwards – means that the Citadel is lower than or about level with, many of the buildings.  In addition, between the walkways and gun emplacements and the outer walls there’s an area of earth and grass, presumably intended for absorbing incoming canon/gun fire.  Over the years the grass and earth banks have grown up and obscured the view out, which is a real shame.  Whilst the view may no longer be all that it was, it would still be nice to see out rather than to feel hemmed in.  But Nicky liked that the representations of the canon and guns on their swivelling carriages [Ed: Fortress Guernsey take note!].

(Top) One of the few views of the harbour from the Citadel.  (Bottom right) View from the Saluting Battery in front of the Citadel.  (Bottom left) Ducq tour of the city passing the Citadel

And there was one place to look out at the city, which gave an idea of what the views from the rest of the Citadel walls could be.

Studio East sundowners platter

After our visit we met up with Steph (she had spent the day on a cycling tour – very virtuous) and she took us to a favourite haunt of Chris and her, Studio East.  It was a beautiful evening and we sat on the patio in the sun enjoying wine and a fabulous platter of fusion styled food.  Delicious, and a lovely way to end the day.

Chris and Steph enjoying the ride.  It’s only 30mph but, as any Caterham 7 owner will tell you, with your bum that close to the road sea, it feels a lot faster!

The following evening Chris and Steph came over to BV for a farewell dinner.  Since at one time or another during our stay in Halifax they had each lent us their car, we thought it only fair that they have a go with ours!

We had a lovely evening with some excellent brie (thanks Steph for finding that!), plenty of wine and beer and some great stories told.  We’ve had a fabulous stay in Halifax and will certainly return, perhaps more than once(!) but, for now, Cape Breton beckons.

Halifax, NS, Canada