Islas Ciés

We anchored overnight off Cangas on Thursday 27 June where we shopped for food. The following morning we sailed the 7½ miles to Islas Ciés which sit across the entrance to Ría de Vigo. The Islas Ciés are somewhere that we particularly wanted to visit before heading south. As you know from previous blog entries, when we were in Vigo we confirmed that we had been given permission to navigate within the National Park area so all we had to do was book online for the Friday and Saturday that we anchored there. Applying for, and being granted, anchoring permission was extremely simple. Inevitably, we were never asked to demonstrate that we had permission to be in the nature reserve (such is life) but when we were ashore on the islands we did see a number of rangers.

The National Park Authorities permit anchoring in just 3 locations. We therefore watched the weather closely and were very pleased that our chose anchorage on the southern end of Isla del Faro was sheltered enough from the N to NE winds (up to 20kts) for us to stay overnight.

We spent Friday 27 June lazily at anchor enjoying the shade from the new boom tent. The mid-afternoon sun was very strong but the boom tent provided plenty of comfortable shade. We even got some jealous looks from other yachts anchored nearby with their crews quietly cooking in the sun. We did contemplate swimming but the sea here is just 15 degrees C, which is a trifle nippy without a wetsuit on. It wasn’t very brave of us but we think we will get plenty of swimming from BV when we sail further south and the water is warmer.

The beach we anchored off: Playa d Nosa Señora

We got up reasonably early on Saturday 29 June to go ashore. It was well worth it because, as well as being cooler, we had the beaches and pathways to ourselves. Later on in the morning the island became much busier with the hoards of visitors imported by the regular ferries.

We aimed for the northern part of Isla Norte, passing the campsite and lagoon, so that we could climb onto the higher ground.

From the causeway between Isla del Medio, off which we were anchored, and Isla Norte we were able to look into the lagoon and see lots of fish. A first for us both was seeing a cuttlefish in its natural environment, rather than on ice at a fishmongers or washed up on a beach as just a shell. Further on we disturbed several large lizards sunning themselves on the rock paths.

The lagoon

Playa de Figueras

The paths on the islands are well organised and wide to keep us out of the wildlife sanctuary areas and are laid out so that visitors can enjoy all the different types of island scenery – beaches, cliffs, lagoon and wooded interior. Climbing up to Alto del Príncipe (111m) we were grateful for the shade from the eucalyptus trees as well as enjoying their fragrance. As we climbed higher the paths became granite and we noticed that the rocks seemed have bubbles in them. The view from Alto del Príncipe was well worth the climb.

Nicky at Pedra da Campá

The view south from Alto del Príncipe

Faro de Ciés

Having climbed the high ground on the northern island, we had to climb the zigzag path up to Faro de Ciés. At 175m it offered great views north towards some of the rías we have visited and also to the south, with Isla de San Martiño in the foreground and Portugal beyond.

Looking north from Faro de Ciés

The southern island, Isla de San Martiño

By the time we got back to the dinghy we had walked about 8km and it was nearly lunchtime. The beach was now teeming with people and seemed an entirely different place to that where we had left the dinghy earlier. After a late lunch back on board it was time to raise the anchor and head for Baiona where Nicky was promising dinner at the yacht club.

Sailing past Isla de San Martiño