Hal Saflieni Hypogeum

Right back at the beginning of April when we were tying up details for our planned visit to Malta, Barry highlighted that it had just been announced that the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum was re-opening. One of the UNESCO World Heritage sites, it had been closed for nearly a year for restoration. To control the delicate microclimate inside it only 10 visitors are allowed into the prehistoric site every hour. Within minutes of getting Barry’s e-mail we booked places online, for what would be a real highlight of our visit to Malta.

With light, humidity and carbon dioxide levels constantly monitored and regulated within the Hypogeum it stands to reason that photographs are not allowed. The grainy photos below are from the brochure but they give an impression of what we saw.

Imitation of architecture cut into the rock in the Main Hall   

The Hypogeum lies underground on the summit of a hill just 15 minutes’ drive from where we were moored. The rocky cavities were carved from Malta’s relatively soft limestone using flints and deer antlers between about 3600BC and 2400BC. The complex was discovered by accident in 1902 when a stonemason, building the foundations and cisterns for a large number of houses, cut into the upper level. By the time it was reported, most of the houses had been completed, destroying the upper levels of the monument. Fortunately, it was eventually reported and so, at the end of 1903, the site became public property and excavation works commenced.

We saw an excellent audio-visual presentation about the site and then made our way down into the complex. The chambers vary considerably in size and are grouped into 3 levels: the upper level (3600-3300BC), the middle level (3300-3000BC), and the lower level (3000-2400BC).

Window cut into the rock in the middle level   

Decoration in the Oracle Room    

It was amazing to think that the smooth walls of these chambers had been cut with such crude flint, bone and stone implements nearly 6000 years ago. Even more impressive was that the larger chambers were carved to give the impression of the above-ground Neolithic temples, some of which we would see later in the same day. Windows and doorways cut in the rock are surrounded by ‘frames’ looking like the pillars and lintels of the era.

The ‘Holy of Holies’   

The Oracle Room resonates mysteriously when a deep voice speaks into a niche in the wall. It’s not know if this was by design or accident but it is possible that the resonating sound was used as part of the religious ceremonies that took place in the Hypogeum or that the niche was where the priests enunciated their oracles. The Oracle Room is also significant because it has the best preserved roof and wall decorations. A swirling motif painted with red ochre probably represents the Tree of Life. The commentary highlighted that the decoration would have been particularly impressive and mysterious when viewed with flickering candlelight, it may even have appeared to have been moving. Almost more amazing is the fact that there is no naturally occurring red ochre in Malta. The nearest is in Sicily which suggests that in 3000BC the temple-building population on Malta was trading with a Sicilian population.

The so called ‘Holy of Holies’ chamber has a magnificent carved façade with 4 upright pillars around a porthole entrance to an inner room. The carved ceiling has also helped archaeologists confirm how the roofs to the above-ground temples were supported.

Steps down to the lowest level (they end in mid air)   

It is believed that the Hypogeum was effectively a temple used specifically for fertility rites and as a burial place. Numerous small carved statues (the ‘Fat Ladies’) of women/mother nature have been found inside, which support the theory of fertility rites, and the design of the chambers and discovery of the bones of thousands of people has confirmed its use as burial place.

During the archaeological excavations, it became clear that only skeletons had been placed in the lower levels of the Hypogeum. It is believed that corpses were left in a chamber in the upper level to decompose before the bones were moved into the burial chambers. The lower levels were dug as the burial chambers in the upper levels reached capacity. The remains of over 7000 people have been found in the chambers, some so fragile that they collapsed into dust when touched.

The deepest room lies 10.6 metres below surface level. Steps leading down into it end in mid-air showing the level to which it was expected to be filled.

It really was an amazing experience to walk through these ancient chambers. Metal walkways ensured that our footsteps did not damage the surface and, with the strict control of access and microclimate, hopefully the Hypogeum will survive to be seen by many future generations. A sign at the entrance highlighted that the tours were booked up well into June and so we felt very lucky to have been given the tip to book our tour so early. It’s mysterious site and a baffling one for the archaeologists to try to interpret. Perhaps one of the biggest mysteries is what happened to the civilisation which created the Hypogeum and the above ground temples; it seems that the population just disappeared by around 2000BC. Next stop for us would be a look at a couple of the above-ground temples built by this ancient civilisation.

Malta