Sailing to Malta

On the correct side of the funny-looking large cage-like structure   

The most direct route from Marzamemi to Isola di Capo Passero is through a narrow 100m wide gap between the fish farm to the east and a prohibited area around a wreck to the west. I convinced myself that a funny-looking large cage-like structure was part of the wreck and set course appropriately. As we got to the edge of the fish farm avoid, Nicky realised that the peculiar half-submerged structure was actually the western-most corner of the fish-farm so we made an abrupt turn to the right to keep outside the area. Skirting around it, we missed both the fish farm and the wreck prohibited area and completed the rest of the passage into Porto Palo uneventfully.

We anchored in the eastern side of the harbour along with 2 other yachts and hoped that the swell, set up by the afternoon’s south to south-easterly wind, would subside. Despite there being little evening wind, the swell remained and it turned out to be a very rolly anchorage. Ideally, we would have tucked ourselves further to the east, for better shelter by the breakwater but the water shallows quite considerably and there are a lot of fishing boat moorings on the east side of the harbour. Given that we were planning to leave at dawn in order to make a planned arrival time in Malta, setting the anchor in the midst of a mooring field seemed less then sensible. Diving to clear a fouled anchor in good daylight is difficult enough; doing it in the early hours would not be fun!

Nicky checking the distance to Malta   

We did a final check of weather and confirmed our plan for a dawn departure. Our original idea had been to turn up in Malta on Tuesday but the forecast showed strong north-westerly winds for the first half of the week, nothing on Wednesday and then strong south-easterly winds for the remainder of the week. Sunday morning looked to be the best option with a brisk 20 knots of wind from the north-west. The wind had yet to go around to the north-west but when we went to bed the forecast suggested that we’d be motoring the first hour or so.

The reality was somewhat different. Neither of us slept well as a result of the swell and we were both awake at 0300hrs with some serious wind blowing [Ed: and from the west too, not the north-west] when we had expected it to be calm. Rather than wait for the wind to get up even more, we decided to just set off for Malta. In the dark it took a little longer than normal to get the anchor up and then hoist the sails, but at 0400hrs we left Porto Palo with 2 reefs in the main and the genoa, sailing hard on the wind.

Initially we had about 20 knots of wind (true, so about 26 knots over the deck) and that, coupled with the current that runs through the Malta Channel, meant we were only just able to make a direct course for Malta. Fortunately, after a couple of hours the wind eased slightly and veered enough for us to sail a close reach.

Approaching Valletta, Malta   

Sails down for entering Grand Harbour    

By the time that we were a third of the way across the wind had eased to 17knots and veered further to the north-west and we were powering along at 7½ knots. As the morning progressed, we just got faster and faster. We sailed the last 3 hours with the wind much more on the beam and BV sitting at 8-8½ knots.

All the way across the Malta Channel we had been surrounded by shipping, though chance dictated that we hadn’t needed to change course to miss any of them. However, just a few miles off Malta that changed. Whilst the ColRegs are clear that in unrestricted waters power-driven vessels give way to vessel under sail, we confess to sailing somewhat defensively when close to very large commercial shipping (particularly when we are positioned such that if we were a motorboat we would be the ‘give way’ vessel), so we weaved a little, and in places slowed down a bit, to pass behind some of the steady stream of ships transiting along the coast.

Our friends Barry and Catherine had seen us 20 miles out on AIS and texted us a welcome. They were sailing down the north coast of Malta from a weekend sail and, as we approached Valletta, we saw them blasting along in Dinah, arriving at Grand Harbour very shortly after us.

It’s an amazing experience sailing into Grand Harbour. The beautiful city of Valetta sits high up to your right surrounded by the most incredible fortified city walls. There are cruise ships moored further along and a frenzy of smaller craft and tourist tripper boats criss-crossing the harbour.

Looking into Dockyard Creek(Bottom), Fort St Angelo (Top L)   

The view to the left is equally stunning with the even older Fort St Angelo; Rinella, Kalkara, Dockyard and French Creeks; and the 3 cities of Birgu, Bormla and Senglea.

Dockyard Creek with the Grand Harbour Marina on the left   

We passed Rinella and Kalkara Creeks and then turned left into Dockyard Creek, where Barry had arranged a berth for us at the southern end, close to what had been No 1 Dry Dock. As we continued up the creek we oohed and ahead at the honey-coloured stone buildings and marvelled at the architecture of the larger ones. We moored up, close to an abandoned warehouse, the ground floor of which (at least) had been there since the time of the Knights of St John, but were hurriedly redirected to another location in the boatyard since we were moored, pretty much, in the local foot passenger ferry’s turning area. It had taken us 8 hours and we had averaged 7.1 knots over the 57 mile passage.

BV moored in Dockyard Creek   

Shortly after we had sorted out BV and showered, Barry picked us up to take us to see Immigration and Customs, a short drive away in Valletta.  And then we were invited back to their place, with it’s fabulous view over the entrance of Grand Harbour and Kilkara Creek, for welcome beers and a chat about what we MUST see and do in Malta.  It’s going to be a great stay!

Valletta, Malta