Ria de Viveiro

As we walked around on Ribadeo on Sunday we’d searched unsuccessfully for a Camping Gaz supplier. What I thought was the logical potential supplier, garages, just stocked the large orange Spanish gas bottles. We therefore consulted the helpful marinero when he came into work on Monday and were instantly pointed in the right direction. Slightly confused we followed the directions and did indeed find that the only supplier of Camping Gaz in Ribadeo was the shop for designer kitchens. It seemed a little bizarre to be exchanging a gas bottle surrounded by top quality kitchen units and granite worktops!  The other task before we left was to get the usual supplies of bread and milk plus some more of that lovely jamón. Temptation struck and we came away with a whole 7kg leg. I suspect it will turn out to be a good buy and we will enjoy slicing wafer-thin strips off it over the coming weeks.


The passage west to the Ria de Viveiro was in light winds and drizzle which was a real shame as we were passing spectacular scenery with granite cliffs and wooded hillsides. As we passed the aluminium works at San Cibrao we were called up by 2 ships anchored offshore and asked to pass astern of one of them as they were preparing to lift anchor and go into port; the AIS transponder again proving its worth.

As a result of the drizzle, the approach into Ria de Viveiro was nothing like as stunning as green hills and bright flowers that we were surrounded by as we had approached Ribadeo. Once inside we chose to anchor close to the shore in the lee of the Isla da Area hoping for a better view of the ria when the weather improved in the morning.

 Nibbling slithers of jamón to accompany a glass of wine, we hatched a plan to stay at anchor for a day or so and then move into the marina at Viveiro to explore the old town. It was a great plan but did not account for an unexpected increase in the wind during the night, far more than forecast, which also backed to the south-west putting us uncomfortably on a lee shore. So, at one o’clock in the morning we upped anchor and moved into the marina, taking the last spot on the visitors’ pontoon which just happened to be the right size for BV.

Later in the morning the arrival paperwork was made very easy by the Marina Manger, Fernando Medraño, who spoke very good English. It was almost a shame that he spoke such good English as Nicky had spent an hour or so working out the necessary Spanish phrases. A short while after we left the marina office, the police visited us on BV and checked our passports. That seemed to be enough arrivals paperwork so, after a brief lunch, we set off into the old part of Viveiro, which dates from the 1500s, to explore. The following pictures give a feel for the town with its narrow streets and distinctive glazed balconies.

 

Viveiro certainly seemed to have more than its fair share of churches and convents and was very quiet and empty as we walked around in the middle of the siesta. Once we had explored the old town we headed uphill, through the eucalyptus woods, to the very windy Monte San Roque viewing point, which gave great views over the ria.